Toyota Fj62 60 Lbs Oil Pressure Reading

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2F oil force per unit area at 60 pounds??? (1 Viewer)

  • Thread starter Sloan
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Sloan

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April 17, 2002
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  • #1
On start upwardly information technology is at xxx pounds and once information technology got warmed upward it stayed at 60 pounds and would creep up 5 ish pounds with increased rpms. I started testing because my estimate suddenly would just peg at the high mark while idling. Then when I would bulldoze it around the cake the oil pressure was reading all over the place. I have a stock 2F that just had the oil pan gasket replaced, radiator replaced and new filter. Is this force per unit area normal or do I take a more serious problem than estimate/electrical? Thanks in advance. :D
Nomis

Nomis

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  • #ii
Sounds like a bad estimate to me - near of the time oil force per unit area is higher when common cold and so psi drops off one time warm. Mine is 60psi common cold at idle and 40psi warm at idle.

Sloan

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  • #3
Is that weird that mine simply stays at 60 pounds even later warmed upwardly? Is this something that I need to worry nearly/ gear up?
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Nomis

Nomis

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  • #4
Is that weird that mine simply stays at 60 pounds even subsequently warmed up? Is this something that I need to worry almost/ fix?

No, it is fine. Oil thins out a flake equally it warms upwardly - and then a small drop is normal. That said, if you have around 60psi consistently, it is okay too. Oil force per unit area shouldn't jump around though - if it does either the gauge is squirrelly or at that place is a trouble with the oiling system - possibly the pump or pressure regulator. My judge is oiling system is fine and you need a new gauge or sender. You tin option up an inexpensive mechanical oil pressure approximate and it will be far more accurate than the factory gauge. If pressure looks adept troubleshoot the OE judge and sender.
Concluding edited:
jkl72-40

jkl72-40

  • #v
re

Muddied pump or pressure regulator? pull information technology clean it supervene upon?

:meh:

ttahara

ttahara

  • #6
I accept the same problem but I replaced my sender and it still stays up actually high on the gauge fifty-fifty after warmed up and driven for a while..i pulled off the wire that goes the sending unit to see if the gauge was bad and information technology wasnt..so i dont know..the wire goin the unit is not on very tight and is kinda loose but still stays on...im afraid to bulldoze information technology cuz driving around with high oil force per unit area might blow a caput gasket right?

Sloan

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  • #7
Per the mechanic that just replaced the oil pan gasket for me I just checked the relief valve under the oil filter. Of course no change! I remember fate wants me to alter that gasket myself. I have a sneaking suspicion that he left me a present behind that is clogging the oil pump.
Nomis

Nomis

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  • #8
...im afraid to drive it cuz driving effectually with high oil pressure might blow a head gasket right?

Define "high" oil force per unit area? Have you lot connected a mechanical gauge upwardly to verify actual pressure? If you are running 90+ psi - yes there may be a problem - if it is around 60 information technology should exist fine. Let us know what y'all detect.

Sloan

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  • #9
The trouble that I'one thousand having is that my idle pressure is threescore pounds. FSM says that idle oil pressure should exist around iv.three pounds, 2500 rpm pressure should exist 37-71 pounds.
FJ40Jim

FJ40Jim

The Cruiser Whisperer
  • #ten
Minimum idle pressure is four.3 PSI. Higher is improve. The stock pressure relief valve usually blows off at l-60PSI.

Go a different cheapo mechanical gage and spiral into the engine to verify what's going on.

Sloan

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  • #11
I did verify the oil pressure with a Sunpro dash type force per unit area gauge and the MAC tools pressure judge that I borrowed from a friend. So I talked to three different sources her in LA today, Rich @ K&H, Brusque @ Spectre and the guys over at TLC. Rich and the guys at TLC both agreed that there is a trouble and that the 2Fs oil force per unit area should fluctuate and that a 60 pound constant pressure is too high. Curt disagrees and maintains that the pressure SHOULD be a constant and that I am chasing a ghost. I am at a loss.
PatFJ40

PatFJ40

  • #12
Was your oil pressure fluctuating earlier you had the work washed? If something was left in the pan and was clogging the pump you would have low oil pressure not high. Yous can also put the wire that connects to the sending unit straight to ground and your gauge should peg out on the high side. If it does you will know your gauge and wiring are skillful. Replace the sending unit.

Sloan

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  • #13
Replaced the sending unit, changed the oil filter and grounded out the gauge to make sure it was okay. I pulled the approximate cluster over again to drop information technology off at an electrical shop up the street to have them get through it. am going to pull the oil pump and check it out over the next few days. No the oil force per unit area wasn't a problem before I had the oil pan gasket replaced but it didn't start pegging until about 2 weeks after. This is why I am stumped, I have checked everything and I figure information technology has to be something really uncomplicated that I take missed out of my inexperience. Please keep the suggestions coming.
ttahara

ttahara

  • #14
Since I couldn't locate a oil pressure tester to it..I only used my oil sending unit of measurement and seems to work fine now..the sending unit was a aftermarket from SOR. They didn't take the original and that was the simply i they had.

Sloan

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  • #15
Went to see the mechanic yesterday and he took one look at my gauge and said it was no good since the needle was al the way to the left. I got another gauge from him, popped information technology in, reassembled the motor and fired information technology upwardly. The new gauge read no oil pressure! I pulled the valve cover to verify that there was oil pumping up and there is. I am going to try to get the new estimate to the electric shop b my firm tomorrow to come across if it's the gauge or something else. Greenbacks for clunkers is looking better and better. :D
Nomis

Nomis

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  • #sixteen
I did verify the oil pressure with a Sunpro dash type pressure gauge and the MAC tools pressure gauge that I borrowed from a friend.
Went to see the mechanic yesterday and he took one look at my gauge and said it was no good since the needle was al the manner to the left. I got some other gauge from him, popped it in, reassembled the motor and fired it up. The new gauge read no oil pressure! I pulled the valve embrace to verify that at that place was oil pumping upwards and in that location is.

Are these mechanical gauges?

Where, specifically, are you lot connecting the gauge on the engine?

The OEM oil sender thread size is i/8"-28 BSP (British Standard Piping)
Most aftermarket gauges are threaded with one/viii"-27 NPTF (National Pipe Thread Fuel)
Are you running an adapter with the test gauges - how are you connecting the test gauges?

Sloan

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  • #17
Yep, both mechanical and I pulled the manufacturing plant sending unit to connect them into the oil cooler. The Sunpro had an adapter and the Mac gauge I borrowed form a Toyota mechanic and information technology was set up upward with no adapters.
Nomis

Nomis

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  • #xviii
Yeah, both mechanical and I pulled the manufactory sending unit of measurement to connect them into the oil cooler. The Sunpro had an adapter and the Mac gauge I borrowed form a Toyota mechanic and it was gear up up with no adapters.

From the sound of information technology, the gauges are installed correctly. What are the odds of 3 bad mechanical gauges - non very good, I would call back. That said, one thing that is odd to me is that they all didn't give consequent pressure level readings. So at this point we all the same don't really know if you truly have a true 30psi at idle - 60psi warm situation or non. We almost need a KNOWN good guess to clear this upward at this point. The skilful news is that you DO accept some oil pressure equally indicated past the valves getting oil.

Sloan

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  • #19
At this point I would believe annihilation! Also the only time that I got the 30 pounds at idle was with the Mac the start reading I did, the other ii times I tried information technology the readings were 60 pounds at idle and revved up.
Nomis

Nomis

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  • #20
the merely time that I got the thirty pounds at idle was with the Mac the first reading I did, the other two times I tried it the readings were 60 pounds at idle and revved upwardly.

That said, your oil pressure level appears to be good and should be safety to run. If at that place are no other related issues, I would drive information technology. I would also bet that the oil pressure drops a scrap once it gets hot - i.e. driven effectually for more than than 30mins - not merely idling.

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